Where to Stay in Lamu: Guesthouses, Riyadhs and Beach Hotels

· 5 min read Hotels
Lamu Old Town waterfront viewed from the water, showing traditional Swahili whitewashed buildings and wooden fishing boats moored at the jetty, Kenya

Lamu is one of East Africa’s most singular destinations — a car-free UNESCO World Heritage island town where the architecture, daily rhythms, and culture have remained largely unchanged for centuries. The accommodation reflects this: most properties are traditional Swahili houses (riyadhs) converted into guesthouses, with carved wooden furniture, courtyard gardens, and rooftop terraces. The choice between Lamu Town and Shela Village is the fundamental decision, and it shapes the entire stay.

Lamu Town vs Shela Village

Lamu Town is the main settlement — a dense, atmospheric warren of narrow coral stone streets, carved wooden doors, and mosques. The fish market, the museum, the Old Fort, and most local restaurants are here. Budget guesthouses are interspersed with traditional family homes. Evenings are quiet because alcohol is not served openly in most of the town.

Shela Village, 2km southwest of Lamu Town, is a quieter, more spread-out settlement with a long beach stretching south. Most upmarket hotels and villa rentals are in Shela. The famous Peponi Hotel is here, and the beach allows swimming most of the year (though check conditions — the channel between Shela and Manda Island can have currents at certain tides). Shela has a small number of restaurants and is noticeably more relaxed than Lamu Town.

Manda Island — directly across the channel — has a handful of private lodges accessible only by boat. Effectively private-island accommodation, with the old town a 10-minute boat ride away.

Budget Guesthouses: From Approximately USD 25-80 Per Night

Baytil Ajaib Guest House (Lamu Town) — A traditional riyadh with basic but atmospheric rooms set around a courtyard. The rooftop terrace has good views over the town. From approximately USD 30-60 per night as of 2026.

Lamu Palace Hotel (Lamu Town waterfront) — A well-located budget option on the main waterfront, with rooms of varying quality (ask for upper-floor rooms for better ventilation and views). Simple but functional. From approximately USD 40-75 per night as of 2026.

Yumbe House Hotel (Lamu Town) — A compact guesthouse in the old town with a loyal following among backpackers and independent travellers. Rooftop seating, simple meals available. From approximately USD 45-80 per night as of 2026.

Stone House Hotel (Lamu Town) — A restored coral stone house with a small number of rooms and a good communal terrace. From approximately USD 50-90 per night as of 2026.

What to Expect at the Budget End

Budget guesthouses in Lamu Town offer character in abundance but inconsistent plumbing and electricity. Fans are standard; air conditioning is rare at this price point. Mosquito nets are essential and usually provided. Bring a torch for walking the unlit alleyways at night.

Mid-Range Hotels: From Approximately USD 100-280 Per Night

Lamu House Hotel (Lamu Town) — A beautifully restored Swahili house converted into an intimate boutique hotel, with carved furniture, a rooftop terrace, and genuine period character. One of the town’s most atmospheric mid-range choices. From approximately USD 150-250 per night as of 2026.

Amu House (Lamu Town) — A carefully managed guesthouse with a small number of rooms, a garden, and attentive service. Good base for exploring the old town on foot. From approximately USD 110-200 per night as of 2026.

Kijani House (Shela) — A mid-range Shela option with a small pool and a pleasant garden setting a short walk from the beach. From approximately USD 120-220 per night as of 2026.

Shela Village Hotel (Shela) — Simple but clean rooms near the Shela beach, popular with repeat visitors who want a quiet base without full luxury pricing. From approximately USD 100-190 per night as of 2026.

Luxury Hotels and Private Villas: From Approximately USD 300-900+ Per Night

Peponi Hotel (Shela) — Lamu’s most famous hotel, established 1967 and still family-run. Twelve rooms on the waterfront between Shela and the channel, with a legendary terrace restaurant and bar. The atmosphere is effortlessly relaxed — guests read, sail, and eat well. This is one of Kenya’s defining hotel experiences. From approximately USD 300-550 per night as of 2026, half-board.

The Majlis Resort (Shela) — A larger upmarket property with a pool, multiple room types including private villas, and a spa. Well-maintained with reliable standards. From approximately USD 400-700 per night as of 2026.

Kizingo Eco Lodge (Shela) — A small, sustainability-focused property with individual bandas set in a garden, a pool, and a strong reputation for personalised service. From approximately USD 450-800 per night as of 2026 all-inclusive.

Banana House (Shela) — A private villa rental, sleeping up to ten guests, with a pool, full staff, and one of Shela’s best private gardens. From approximately USD 1,200-2,500 per night for the full villa as of 2026. Well-suited to family groups and small parties.

Manda Bay (Manda Island) — A private-island lodge with just eight bandas on a remote beach, reachable by boat from Lamu. From approximately USD 500-900 per night as of 2026 all-inclusive.

Practical Notes for Booking

Book well ahead for December to January and July to August — Lamu’s limited inventory means properties sell out, particularly the luxury end. Direct booking with properties usually gets you the best advice on boat transfers and local logistics. Lamu has no ATMs that reliably process international cards; carry sufficient Kenya shillings from Mombasa or Nairobi.

For island boat trips, sailing dhows, and Lamu Archipelago excursions, browse Lamu tours and activities. For the full island overview including what to see and cultural context, see our Lamu city guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I get to Lamu?
Lamu has a small airport on Manda Island (LAU). Daily flights operate from Nairobi Wilson Airport with Fly540, AirKenya, and Safarilink — approximately 1 hour flight time, from approximately USD 120-250 one-way as of 2026. Buses from Nairobi via Mombasa take 12-16 hours and are not recommended for first-time visitors. On arrival at Manda Airport, a short boat crossing (KES 100-300, around 5 minutes) takes you to Lamu Town jetty.
Are there cars in Lamu?
Almost none. Lamu Island has two vehicles (both owned by the district hospital and county government). Transport in town is by foot, donkey, or wooden motorboat. Between Lamu Town and Shela Village (2km), you can walk along the beach in 25-30 minutes, hire a donkey (approximately KES 300-500 as of 2026), or take a short boat transfer. Shela's main street is paved and wide enough for carts but not cars.
Is Lamu safe?
Lamu Town and Shela Village are considered safe for visitors. The well-documented incidents of the early 2010s that affected the area were concentrated on the northern Lamu Archipelago islands and Mpeketoni on the mainland — neither of which tourists visit. Most embassies lifted formal travel advisories for Lamu Town and Shela by 2016. Check your government's current advisory before travel.

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